079: MIKA KIYONO
lives in Issey Miyake pleats and Prada-esque headbands.
I bumped into Mika a couple of weeks ago at an exhibit opening in the city. The memory is a bit foggy now, but I’m almost certain she was wearing a Prada dress with hands on it. Or was it faces? I’m leaning toward hands, because it felt so perfectly suited to the night - the exhibit was Man Ray, an epic photographer of hands. (By the way, did you know Man Ray is from Philadelphia? I always assumed he was French!)
I’ve known Mika casually for years. She’s a publicist, and we used to work together back when I was in magazines. What I didn’t know is that she also runs Sonomama Sonomama, the insider-y vintage shop stocked with Prada, Yohji, and Comme. Does everyone in New York have a side hustle?
I often think about how routine is actually the key to freedom - with fewer decisions to make every day, our minds have more room to wander. For some reason, I think of Mika’s wardrobe as an embodiment of that idea. It’s utilitarian, which is precisely what allows it to be unique, creative, and free. I asked her to tell me all about it. Read on!
Describe your personal style. What are you living in right now and why?
Utilitarian but considered, never fussy. Variations on a theme. I also love a matching set.
How often do you shop?
Probably more often than I should, though I do try to be thoughtful and not shop on impulse. It’s not helpful that I run a little online vintage store on the side, which can mean I’m sourcing for that OR things end up in my own closet...
Where do you shop the most?
Mostly online and mostly secondhand—TRR, Poshmark, eBay—peppered by local independent stores like BOMI and No Gem, especially for jewelry. I rarely shop vintage in person anymore but had recent successes at Enso Vintage in Antwerp and Mirth Vintage in Greenpoint which was unexpected and thrilling!
MIKA’S MOST WORN
Issey Miyake across daily life, to special occasions and everything in between.
MVPs include: black pleated cardigan (also great worn backwards with the buttons down the back), black pleated pants from either mainline or the now-defunct Fete line for their matte texture and silhouette of the pants; Pleats Please black mini skirt that can also be worn as a top. I have the Madame T scarf and as of now I’ve figured out three different ways to wear it.
Mesh tops
I love them as a base layer, one that looks good when it peeks out—for example, a white mesh top under a black or navy sweater for a pop at the neck or at the sleeves—or on their own. My black one from Jean-Paul Gaultier (pre-craze) is a favorite, as is any from Dries Van Noten, and the Uniqlo x Mame Kurogouchi collaboration had a great option with a center seam.
Classic Margiela black tabi boots
I wear them everywhere, for any occasion, with any outfit, no notes.
Knee high boots
After years of mostly ankle boots, I find myself preferring knee high boots since they usually pair better with dresses and skirts. I’m always looking for good vintage options in various toe shapes and heel heights.
Black headband à la Prada spring 2024
Credit is due to Jenny Walton for her tutorial on how to make these from pantyhose! It is a godsend when I’m in between haircuts.
Best buy of the last year?
Vintage Margiela knee high tabi boots: Since I’d started wearing more knee high boots (per the above), I was really hoping for a pair of knee high tabi boots, but I didn’t love the leather on the current ones. I miraculously found a vintage pair in my size, likely from 2003, on Vestiaire for way less than the retail price for a new pair, only to have their authentication team deem them “fake,” canceling the order. It was devastating, especially since I was sure they were authentic. I gave up after I had no luck convincing them over phone, email, etc. (lol), but they must have been re-evaluated as they were re-listed a couple days later. I bought them immediately. The tabis are perfect—softest leather in a dark brown, almost black—and definitely not fake! One of my best buys, ever.
Plastic woven bag from Taiwan: I bought this black woven bag from a local shop in Taipei that my mom found during our visit there this summer. It’s very roomy so it works well for work, travel, or errands; the plastic material makes it durable in any weather, and the weaving is beautiful. This scratched the itch I had for a Dragon Diffusion bag for the time being.
What are you currently searching for?
If we are dreaming big (why not): a Fortuny pleated dress or ensemble; Cristóbal era Balenicaga.
More immediately, I’m always searching for items that will maybe solve my personal conundrums once and for all:
-What shoes to wear in the summer rain?
-What shoes travel well, are walkable, but aren’t sneakers?
-What is a good beanie alternative? (One current solution is a vintage fur hat from eBay)
What’s your go-to bodega/coffee/grocery-run outfit?
Whatever Issey pleats I have out that can be thrown on.
Does your style change when you go to work?
No, not really, and I’ve never needed a separate work wardrobe either.
What’s your go-to out for a night out?
I love time of day dressing, as in my mind what I wear in the morning to run errands vs. an afternoon coffee vs. dinner in the evening all serve different purposes. The concept of “refreshing” between different times of day is important to me, and this of course doesn’t have to be and often isn’t a full outfit change multiple times a day—even a small swap or adjustment is a good mental reset.
In general, I love a high neck/boat neck and a low back, so I gravitate towards any dresses, thin knits, and tops with this silhouette. I wear a lot of my Issey tops/dresses backwards to achieve this, especially as their usual scoop neck is unfortunately not flattering on me.
It’s fun to be a little more impractical and frivolous for a night out. I always prefer a smaller bag for the evening and might opt for the slightly uncomfortable shoe choice for the sake of the outfit.
What clothing item or accessory do you always travel with?
My travel outfit is the aforementioned Issey black pleated cardigan and black pants—it reads as a suit/matching set but is very comfortable, and can be worn together or separately at the destination.
A black turtleneck and/or white button down shirt, depending on the season.
HeatTech, unless it’s summer, as I’m always cold :(
Scarves for all-purpose use: for the head, neck, as a top. I’ll usually bring some silk scarves and the Pleats Please Basic Scarf.
Bags that pack flat: vintage black Bottega Veneta hobo for the day as it’s roomy, practical, but still looks elegant in any situation; Prada nylon pochette for the evening, which I also use to store small items and valuables during the trip so it doesn’t get lost in my suitcase.
I also always travel with tea bags.
Do you change your accessories or wear the same ones?
I used to be much more focused on clothing specifically but have recently been inspired by friends who taught me a lot about wearing, styling, and collecting jewelry and accessories. These are my current staples:
My friend Charlotte von Hardenburgh oversees the archive of Fran Hosken, a designer who created a collection of spring-wire jewelry (in addition to other projects such as furniture) from 1947 to 1951. I’m so lucky to have had the opportunity to wear many Hosken pieces. My daily go-to is the stainless steel choker; for special occasions I love wearing the full set of rope, bracelets, and earrings, which speak to the incredible modularity and modernity of Fran’s designs.
I also wear rings from Miguel and Caan Crudo. Both brands are based in Mexico City and were introduced to me by friends. Marta crafts beautiful silver jewelry all by hand; Crudo Caan works with various natural materials like clay and quartz. I wear my silver ring from Marta and onyx ring from Crudo Caan every day.
Since I’m not very tall, I’ve found that proportionately an easy outfit fix is to put on a belt. This thin black belt with a paperclip-like silver closure from Anderson’s is my favorite.
