Though I am stuck at my little desk in New York City, the traveling circus of SS24 runways continues to keep me in its clutches. No shock, I was mesmerized by the Prada show, and specifically by these Prada bags that you’ve certainly already seen on Instagram. They’re so weird! And so weirdly perfect. They got me thinking about the appeal of the odd accessory.
The odd accessory is a (very straightforward) term that I came up with about an hour ago, but it’s a concept that I’ve been thinking about for years. Odd accessories push simple looks out of their comfort zone. They have an unexpected (ahem, odd) quality - maybe their texture, shape, function, color, or size. Margiela’s tabis immediately come to mind. So do neck-objets like Lemaire’s castanet necklace and The Row’s decorative comb. A balaclava seemed to be 2023’s odd cold-weather accessory of choice, and Emily Dawn Long’s Smize barrette was everywhere this summer. I could really continue this list forever… I’ve linked a few more old and new favorites below.
For me this is a chic way to add some novelty or subversiveness to my look, especially as someone who keeps things relatively simple with clothes. It all comes down to styling, really. And speaking of styling, this week I was very lucky to speak to Amy Smilovic, a true master of the mix herself.
Amy Smilovic is the creative director of Tibi, a brand she founded in 1997. Tibi creates clothes and accessories that are stylish and pragmatic, often featuring clever, functional details. In recent years, Amy has also become known for her own approach to getting dressed - a process that she details to rapturous fans on her social media. Amy has been living in blazers lately and I asked her to tell me more. A lightly edited excerpt of our conversation is below.
CH: How do blazers fit into your life and your personal style? Why do they work for you?
AS: I've always, always been a blazer person. It was my go-to in college and then I got my start in business in the 90s, when it was all about Donna Karan and Jill Sander. I've always loved blazers and what they represent in terms of business and being put-together. But I also love that they can look effortless with a pair of jeans. I wear blazers so often because of their functionality. I commute, every day I’m on a train, so I'm always looking for things that can come on and off. And a blazer is a cardigan to me in that way. If I go work out on the weekend, it's my post workout coverup.
CH: I love the idea of you wearing a blazer with your workout clothes.
AS: Why not? I mean, granted, some people are like, “oh my god but you're so sweaty.” Clearly I'm not working out as much as I should, because that's really not an issue. And I can't stand the idea of a shawl for evening if you're going to an event. I think it's the quickest way to either look very religious if you're not, or much older than you intend to. Putting a blazer over the shoulders is so chic to me.
CH: I like what you were saying before about being a woman in business and what blazers symbolize to you.
AS: Blazers are interesting. I hear things from people in my DMs. Sometimes people tell me that they psychologically don't feel like they have a right to own the blazer. Maybe it's someone who's really young and they’re saying “my friends are going to think I'm in an office,” or “I'm working from home and it feels pretentious.” It might be a stay-at-home mom who says, “okay, I’m trying to look like a boss woman and I'm not.” A lot of people overthink the business significance of a blazer rather than just the pure functionality. It just makes so much sense.
CH: Sometimes I feel like I look pretty dorky in a blazer. It probably comes down to the styling. Do you have particular styling tips for blazers?
AS: My styling tips are more related to how I think about style in general. So, when I wear things that are big, I'll tend to pair it with something quite slim or push up the sleeve so it shows some skin. If I wear something with texture, I tend to wear it with other pieces that don’t have texture. If I wear a blazer in a corporate way, I'd probably mix it with something really not corporate. It’s all about balance. So, I do have rules that apply to blazers, but they're the rules, not rules but principles, that apply to everything I do.
CH: These are your own personal style rules that you follow with everything.
AS: Yes, but actually I do want to say principles, not rules. A lot of people get caught up in rules and I always try to tell them, they’re principles. Principles teach you how to think.
CH: Do you have any favorite blazers that you are wearing a lot right now?
AS: We have one that's called the Liam. It’s a men's style that's engineered to be oversized. I really, really live in that one. I've been craving something a little more tailored and traditional as well. But no matter what, they all have to have some interesting proportion happening to them. I think if you feel dorky in a blazer, like you said before, odds are it was probably a very basic blazer. A lot of people don't realize that you can't just size up in a blazer. It really needs to be engineered to be oversized to work. Otherwise you just kind of look like Tom Hanks in the movie Big when he shrinks.
CH: Aside from the blazers that you're living in, are there any other pieces that you wear on repeat?
AS: I'm a huge wearer of socks.
CH: Tell me more.
AS: It's funny, some people write to me and they're like, “I don't think I can pull off the sock and sandal trend.” To me it's so not a trend. Socks give sandals such longevity throughout the seasons, and they change things up. A brown sandal with a white sock can work with so many things. If you put something on and you feel like you need that brown sandal to look quirkier, add a sock. Or if you need more coverage, the white sock kind of gives it a boot-like effect. I love the functionality of socks.
CH: People have a real mental block about the socks and sandals thing, but once you start doing it, it's so natural. It works so well.
AS: It's not like you're wearing a little bobby sock with a lace trim. I mean, you could, but that’s a specific outfit. If you really just view it through the lens of, I'm cold, I need a heel, I need something brown, I have a sandal, but it's not summertime, let’s put a sock on it and just be done with it.
CH: Any other key pieces to a functional wardrobe?
AS: I always have a hoop earring.
CH: Me too.
AS: These are just things I always have. They're not a uniform. I would say they're a safety net. Whenever I just need something that I know, no matter what, will be good, this is what I turn to.
AMY’S MOST WORN:
Blazers.
Toteme ($900), Frankie Shop ($345), Tibi ($995), Tibi ($750), Deadwood ($350) Sandals and socks.
Shoes clockwise from top left: Tamara Mellon ($595), Emme Parsons ($450), The Row, ($950), Tory Burch ($328), Tibi ($475); Socks from left: J.Crew ($35), Comme Si ($30), Uniqlo ($5), Cos ($17) Hoop earrings.
Clockwise from top left: Sophie Buhai ($225), Laura Lombardi ($148), Mejuri ($88), Jil Sander ($480), All Blues ($280), CompletedWorks ($231)
Thank you for reading this week. I hope you wear something slightly odd this weekend - I’ll do it too! Until next Thursday. xx
Amy made me felt in love with socks and sandals. È così chic ✨
I think she is just a genius.